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Enamel and silver cuffs - Bukhara

Hallmarked M3 then something then 84. Any clues? See next photo.
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  • Russian hallmark

  • Very impressive, timeless.

  • Hi, i would also be interested to see these hallmarks and the reverse of these cuffs if you don't mind. I am collecting data on these. thanks

  • I would make the following comments: (1) the pieces look very recent indeed, in all respects, with even the patterning and colouring quite different from their predecessors several decades before, such as Linda Pastorino has posted here on "ethnic jewels" and elsewhere. I do not imply in stating that these are recent that they are not attractive or well made - merely to indicate what I believe about their dates, and in that regard the Russian marks should not be given much weight. (2) On the other hand, as to the question how pieces made in Russia would end up in Bukhara: that is no problem, and not at all untraditional. Smiths from Kubachi, Dagestan (in Russia) were known to make heavily enamelled silver bracelets regularly for rich customers in Bukhara. Usually those objects were commissioned by rich clients who wished to give them to Bukharan people they valued. We should, I think, look at it this way: the client wanted to give something extraordinary, NOT made in Bukhara, to one or more persons there. Thus the heavy typically Russian-style enamelling. At the same time, the piece had to fit in with local aesthetics to an extent, and hence the overall design/shape immediately indicates "Bukhara" (or even "Uzbekistan"). Viewed this way, the "export story" from Russia to Bukhara makes perfect sense. The bracelets above are probably a continuation of that story, but in a current, "new", "contemporary" style which is much "lighter" in colour and overall feel - rather "fussier", too. This is the best "reconstruction" of events that I can come up with. I say this without having seen the specific marks, but if they are Russian that would fit in with the story, Kubachi having traditionally been the source for enamelled wares that were widely transported to e.g. Uzbekistan, but of course also elsewhere. I have corresponded with three collectors from Russia, one from Moscow who is a true connoisseur, and two informed ones literally from Kubachi or very close, and they all confirm the basic outline of events.

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