Ethnic Jewels

An appreciation of ethnic jewellery and adornment

Afghan Hairclips

A couple of Hairclips - Tribal Kuchi Jewelry
Afghanistan, the Pashtuns,
19th, first half 20th century
Silver, filigree,
Inserts - turquoise,
handmade,
Length - 70mm
Width pendants - 50mm
The weight of each is 27.5 g.
The use of frequent inlay turquoise accents reminiscent of traditional Uzbek jewelry, but unlike Uzbek, Afghan jewelry, this style is no gilding, enamel, and polychrome panels of glass and gems. Products combine the exquisite filigree pattern, alternating stamped overlays, along with some rigor inherent in the decorations of nomads.

Since ancient times, Afghan master jewelers were famous as skilled jewelers. Jewelry from Afghanistan were exported to other countries in Central Asia, Iran and Middle East countries.

Now such ornaments of silver fine workmanship can be seen only in Museum collections and private collections.
Since the mid-20th century, the production of such traditional jewelry lost, and later was made mostly just rude imitations of old forms of cheap alloys and modern jewelry in European style.

Literature:
1. Alfred Janata. Schmuck in Afganistan. / Janata A. - Graz: Akademische Druck – u. Verlagsanstalt, 1981. - s. 72-73
2. Layla S. Diba. Turkmen Jewelery. Silver Ornaments from the Marshall an Marilin R. Wolf Collection / Layla S. Diba – New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art 2011 – p. 166
3. Wolf Dieter Slwert. Jewellery from the Orient. Treas-ures from the Bir Collection. / Wolf-Dieter Slwert – Stuttgart: Arnoldshe 2009 – 192-194p.

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Comment by Peter Hoesli on July 8, 2017 at 6:43

Wonderful and so well described/documented - Congratulations Aleksandr! Peter

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